Well, I just hit 6000 miles on the van. I changed it at 1600 miles (w/o a new filter) with conventional oil just for piece of mind if there was anything harmful left over from the factory fill. I had a free oil change from the dealer and had them do it at 4000 miles (they used conventional). I will be using a semi-synthetic for piece of mind and trying to get 5000 mile change intervals with a little extra headroom. I will initally be going 4000 miles on the semi-syn (should be no problem) and then getting an analysis done to see if I can go 5000.
Ok, a quick word about oils. Whether you use conventional, semi-synthetic, or synthetic, each has their strengths and weaknesses. This is mainly a cost / convenience issue because conventional oils will do fine if changed at regular intervals (w/ 3000 being the gold standard). Modern conventionals are now good enough that going 4000 would probably not be a problem, but without an analysis, I would not go much further. Synthetics offer higher heat tolerances and additives that hold up for longer periods of time making it possible to go 6 - 10K or even more between changes. Semi-synthetics or blends are high quality conventionals with some synthetic & additives on top. This ratio might vary widely from 10% up to almost 60% for additives. For more oil info than you can shake a stick at, I recommend the BITOG forum: BITOG link
Ok, now to the DIY
Tools I used:
3/8" rachet, 10mm & 17mm sockets
large strapwrench
small standard screwdriver
Other needed items:
Filter kit (filter, O-rings)
Crush washer
6 quarts of oil (5.9 needed)
vehicle ramps
Oil drain pan / bucket
funnel
newspaper and paper towels
Ok, first thing, is to get your vehicle up off the ground, whether by jack / jackstands or ramps. Please be carefull and make sure the vehicle is in park with the emergency brake on and something (brick, block, etc) is placed behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling. If the vehicle has been standing a while, just take your time and buy letting it run for 2 or 3 minutes, the oil will be warmer and flow easier. If the vehicle is still hot, get it lifted and give it 20 minutes or so to cool off some.
Ok, the filter kit (you can get through the dealer, but I got a better deal online from ebay for a lot of 10 including 10 crush washers) See this post:
After popping the hood, you will be staring at your engine cover. The 10mm socket is needed to remove the 4 bolts holding it on, and the small extension is a must for the back ones if not using deepwell sockets:
Without the engine cover (filter housing circled on right):
Ok, open the add oil cap in front but leave it in place so air can get in and let the oil flow, but so no debris will get in either. Now, get under the van with your oil pan / bucket under some newspaper (just in case you spill some). You can see the drain plug on the back side of the oil pan:
Get your 17mm socket to loosen the drain plug. If it is extremely tight, you might have to get a 1/2" rachet with a socket adapter. Once broke loose, slowly screw it off with your hand, then remove the plug quickly. Have some paper towels handy to clean off your hand and the plug. You could also use some thin latex, rubber gloves if you want to avoid getting oil on your skin. You will need to put your container several inches behind the drain because initially it will pour out in a big arc with some force. As the volume drops, so will the force, and you can move the container directly under the plug in just a short while. Another shot from directly under:
Once you are down to a drip, time to go back up topside, and locate the filter housing:
It is supposed to need a special tool, but some Sonata owners on the Elantraclub forum with the smaller 3.3 Lambda engine said they just got theirs off with a large strapwrench. Thats what I did and it worked just fine.
Ok, once you slowly pulled the filter element up, it maybe stuck to the cap with a thin layer of oil. It slides right off, and now we are ready to replace the O-rings. There is a large one (B) that goes around a thicker thread on the cap, and a smaller one for the end (A). The smaller one can be a tough customer to get off. Just use a small screwdriver and pry one side up and work your way around. The large one has a notch in the cap and it is much easier to get off.
I got a little oil on my finger and lubed the O-rings before installing them. Next, drop your new filter element on and we are almost finished:
Replace the filter & cap, and tighten it back up. Wipe the drainplug off, and remove the old washer and replace it with a new one (if you have). Get back under the van and replace the drain plug, wiping off any remaining oil on the oil pan. Tighten the drain plug snuggly, but DO NOT overtighten it or you will strip the threads. Back up topside, completely take off the oil fill cap, and hold your funnel and add 5.9 quarts of oil. Mine is still showing a little past full, so we will see if it continues to drop as the filter element gets fully saturated. You could add 5.5, check it and top it off later if you like.
Ok, replace oil fill cap, reattach engine cover. Check for any leaks at the drainplug. Remove everything out from under the van. Make sure the blocks or whatever is out from behind the van, and set the van back down. Check the oil level on the dipstick. After the first drive, and it cools down, check it the level again to make sure everything looks A-OK. You can also check the drainplug once more when you do this for piece of mind. If you have made it this far, congrats for changing your oil.
Remember, to avoid warranty issues, keep a detailed record of your mileage, date it was changed, oil type & quantity, and if the filter was changed. As far as oil goes, the manual recommends 5w-20. 5w30 and 10w30 can also be used, but I would lean more towards the thinner weight oils as they will help you achive better fuel economy.
Pricewise depending on your location (I am in TN), you can get a 5 quart bottle of conventionals for around $7 to $9, semi-sythetics for around $15 / 5 qt., and synthetics for $21 - $29 / 5 qt. I have read some good reviews about Motorcraft's semi-synthetic on BITOG. I got a 5 qt bottle of 5w-20 for only $10.36, which puts it so close to conventionals, I just had to try it. To finish things off, I got a single quart for $2.32. I have been using Castrol Syntec-blend in my Elantra since the second oil change, and it is just over $15 / 5 qt. I will keep everyone posted when I get the analysis done @ 10K. Thanks to everyone who takes time to read this.
Doc
Ok, a quick word about oils. Whether you use conventional, semi-synthetic, or synthetic, each has their strengths and weaknesses. This is mainly a cost / convenience issue because conventional oils will do fine if changed at regular intervals (w/ 3000 being the gold standard). Modern conventionals are now good enough that going 4000 would probably not be a problem, but without an analysis, I would not go much further. Synthetics offer higher heat tolerances and additives that hold up for longer periods of time making it possible to go 6 - 10K or even more between changes. Semi-synthetics or blends are high quality conventionals with some synthetic & additives on top. This ratio might vary widely from 10% up to almost 60% for additives. For more oil info than you can shake a stick at, I recommend the BITOG forum: BITOG link
Ok, now to the DIY
Tools I used:
3/8" rachet, 10mm & 17mm sockets
large strapwrench
small standard screwdriver
Other needed items:
Filter kit (filter, O-rings)
Crush washer
6 quarts of oil (5.9 needed)
vehicle ramps
Oil drain pan / bucket
funnel
newspaper and paper towels
Ok, first thing, is to get your vehicle up off the ground, whether by jack / jackstands or ramps. Please be carefull and make sure the vehicle is in park with the emergency brake on and something (brick, block, etc) is placed behind the rear wheels to prevent rolling. If the vehicle has been standing a while, just take your time and buy letting it run for 2 or 3 minutes, the oil will be warmer and flow easier. If the vehicle is still hot, get it lifted and give it 20 minutes or so to cool off some.
Ok, the filter kit (you can get through the dealer, but I got a better deal online from ebay for a lot of 10 including 10 crush washers) See this post:
After popping the hood, you will be staring at your engine cover. The 10mm socket is needed to remove the 4 bolts holding it on, and the small extension is a must for the back ones if not using deepwell sockets:
Without the engine cover (filter housing circled on right):
Ok, open the add oil cap in front but leave it in place so air can get in and let the oil flow, but so no debris will get in either. Now, get under the van with your oil pan / bucket under some newspaper (just in case you spill some). You can see the drain plug on the back side of the oil pan:
Get your 17mm socket to loosen the drain plug. If it is extremely tight, you might have to get a 1/2" rachet with a socket adapter. Once broke loose, slowly screw it off with your hand, then remove the plug quickly. Have some paper towels handy to clean off your hand and the plug. You could also use some thin latex, rubber gloves if you want to avoid getting oil on your skin. You will need to put your container several inches behind the drain because initially it will pour out in a big arc with some force. As the volume drops, so will the force, and you can move the container directly under the plug in just a short while. Another shot from directly under:
Once you are down to a drip, time to go back up topside, and locate the filter housing:
It is supposed to need a special tool, but some Sonata owners on the Elantraclub forum with the smaller 3.3 Lambda engine said they just got theirs off with a large strapwrench. Thats what I did and it worked just fine.
Ok, once you slowly pulled the filter element up, it maybe stuck to the cap with a thin layer of oil. It slides right off, and now we are ready to replace the O-rings. There is a large one (B) that goes around a thicker thread on the cap, and a smaller one for the end (A). The smaller one can be a tough customer to get off. Just use a small screwdriver and pry one side up and work your way around. The large one has a notch in the cap and it is much easier to get off.
I got a little oil on my finger and lubed the O-rings before installing them. Next, drop your new filter element on and we are almost finished:
Replace the filter & cap, and tighten it back up. Wipe the drainplug off, and remove the old washer and replace it with a new one (if you have). Get back under the van and replace the drain plug, wiping off any remaining oil on the oil pan. Tighten the drain plug snuggly, but DO NOT overtighten it or you will strip the threads. Back up topside, completely take off the oil fill cap, and hold your funnel and add 5.9 quarts of oil. Mine is still showing a little past full, so we will see if it continues to drop as the filter element gets fully saturated. You could add 5.5, check it and top it off later if you like.
Ok, replace oil fill cap, reattach engine cover. Check for any leaks at the drainplug. Remove everything out from under the van. Make sure the blocks or whatever is out from behind the van, and set the van back down. Check the oil level on the dipstick. After the first drive, and it cools down, check it the level again to make sure everything looks A-OK. You can also check the drainplug once more when you do this for piece of mind. If you have made it this far, congrats for changing your oil.
Remember, to avoid warranty issues, keep a detailed record of your mileage, date it was changed, oil type & quantity, and if the filter was changed. As far as oil goes, the manual recommends 5w-20. 5w30 and 10w30 can also be used, but I would lean more towards the thinner weight oils as they will help you achive better fuel economy.
Pricewise depending on your location (I am in TN), you can get a 5 quart bottle of conventionals for around $7 to $9, semi-sythetics for around $15 / 5 qt., and synthetics for $21 - $29 / 5 qt. I have read some good reviews about Motorcraft's semi-synthetic on BITOG. I got a 5 qt bottle of 5w-20 for only $10.36, which puts it so close to conventionals, I just had to try it. To finish things off, I got a single quart for $2.32. I have been using Castrol Syntec-blend in my Elantra since the second oil change, and it is just over $15 / 5 qt. I will keep everyone posted when I get the analysis done @ 10K. Thanks to everyone who takes time to read this.
Doc
